Laos Travel 2023 -Pakse

Pakse is not really a tourist town. It’s on the backpacker route to the 4000 Islands and it’s the closest big town to Vat Phou. It has hotels and the basics for travellers but it’s more interesting as a real Laos town.

Getting There

We travelled to Pakse from Thailand via Ubon Ratchathani. We took the bus which we pre-booked with 12goasia. There are two buses a day. One at 9:00 am and one at 3:00 pm BUT when we arrived at 8:00 am to catch our 9:00 am bus we were told that it was full, and we would have to take the next bus which was the 3:00 pm bus, but it was leaving at 12 noon? The tickets from 12goasia cost us twice what they would have cost at the bus station, and they did not get us on the bus we booked! We don’t usually use 12goasia and that is why. The 12 noon bus actually left at 1pm…

You can also fly to Pakse or take a bus from Vientiane, but the road between Pakse and Vientiane is not great so it’s a bit of a rough ride. We flew from Pakse to Vientiane.

Once we were on the bus things went much more smoothly. There was a woman on the bus selling Laos SIM cards and installing them! She was also exchanging Bhat for KIP at a very good exchange rate. At the border the bus waited for us to get though customs which does not always happen. Sometimes you have to switch buses at the border. Driving across the border must be interesting as they drive on different sides of the road in Laos and Thailand.

As Canadians we can get a 30 day Visa at the border. You need a passport photo and a $40 US fee. They asked us to pay in Bht but the fee was much cheaper in US. Note: You have to have brand new undamaged bills or they will not take your money. This applies to US Dollars and Euros.

The bus from Thailand drops you off at a small bus station after you cross the Lao-Nippon Bridge. It’s not the one by the night market so you will probably need a tuk-tuk to get into the main part of town. We paid 50,000 Kip each which was the “holiday price”. We arrived in Laos on December 2^nd which is “National Day”. It’s a “mandatory” holiday to mark the end of the monarchy and the beginning of the Lao People’s Democratic Republic in 1975. We saw many flags on display but no other activities.

We went to the 4000 Islands from Pakse by van and returned by van. The vans go from the bus station by the night market- Chitpasong Bus station You can buy tickets there or from many travel agents in town.

We stayed in Pakse on the way to and from the 4000 Islands so we stayed in two separate hotels. The first hotel was the Pakse Mekong Hotel which is located very close to the Mekong River. The hotel was fine and walking or running along the dike by the Mekong is pleasant, but there is not much close to the hotel and Pakse has almost no street lights so walking around in the dark is a bit of a hazard.

The second hotel we stayed at way the Soubandith Hotel which has a great lobby. It’s located close to the local market. If we were to stay there again we would look for something closer to the night market and the bus station.

Things to do in Pakse

Take a walk or a run along the dike and watch the sunset over the Mekong River.

You will not be alone it’s a local pass time. It looks like they are working on adding more park area along the river and the sunsets are beautiful.

Visit the Daoheuang / Pakse New Market

This is the biggest market in the province. It’s a great place for local produce and it’s worth the trip to get a view of local life. It’s fascinating. There are food stalls and tables in the western corner. The food was cheap and good but the area around the tables was one of the few places on this trip where there were a lot of people begging. It did not happen in the rest of the market.

Across the street from the market on the road that goes towards the river (it appears to have no name) there are live goats, pigs and chickens for sale.

Wat Luang Pakse

This Wat is relatively close to the night market. It dates back to 1849 although like most other Wats it has been added to since. It’s one of the most important temples in the province. There are some great painted murals.

The Night Market- Champasak Night plaza

There is a small night market close to Chitpasong bus station. It has tables and a selection of food. There are also games and slides for kids.

The Pakse Market

This smaller local market was our favorite place to eat. They have tables and a good selection of food. Each table belongs to a different cook. We had the best pad kapow on the trip there and unlike the Daoheuang, no one was begging for money as we ate.

Wat Phousalao

Located on the other side of the Lao-Nippon Bridge. You can’t help but notice the giant Buddha looking over the town. We rented bikes and rode there. NOTE: There is a set of steps going up to Wat Phousalao from the first road after the bridge on the left hand side. It is not on google maps. Google maps will tell you to go up the road which is much further than going up the steps.

Wat Phousalao is a bit of climb but it’s definitely worth it. The giant Buddha is just the beginning. There are literally hundreds of other Buddhas at the Wat just above the giant statue and there are some great views as well.

Bike Rental and travel agencies

There are a number of travel agencies and small hostels that rent bikes in the area before the Souphanuvong bridge on the north side of the main road which I believe is road 13.

Tours around Pakse

We were surprized to find that there were very few places offering group tours to the areas around Pakse. Everyone wanted to sell us private tours. We eventually found Pakse Travel Co. Ltd. It’s not on google maps but it is beside Peter Pan Bike Rental that you can find on google maps.

Private or group there are three basic tour variations.

Tours to the 4000 Islands – if you have the time they are worth more than a day trip. We spent a few days there. You can find the details here
Tours of the waterfalls on the Plateau- we did not do this but we would do it if we went back

Tad Fane- is Laos highest waterfall and has a zipline for about $40US. Tad Yuang and Tad Champee both of which you can swim at.

Tours to Vat Phu (50,000KIP admission fee) – we did a day trip there by Tuk Tuk for $8 US.

Vat Phou or Vat Phu (same place different spelling)

We did this as a day tour – we paid $8 US each and a Tuk-Tuk took us and three other people there, waited for us and came back. It’s about 40 km out of town. Tuk-Tuks are not overly comfortable for long distance travel!

The nearest village is Champassak and there is enough to do and see that some people do an overnight stay there. We drove through it.

Vat Phu is a Unesco World Heritage Site. The original temple was built between the 7^th and 11^th century at the base of Mount Phu Kao to honor the Hindu god, Shiva. The location was chosen because the of a pillar like stone formation on top which looks like a linga. The phallic representation of Shiva – and yes it’s a male organ. Don’t hold me to the date because everywhere you look the date is different! Parts of these Khmer ruins pre-date Angkor Wat. It was converted to a Buddhist temple in the 13^th century.

When you arrive, there is a small gift shop and restaurant. You pay a 50,000 KIP entrance fee which includes a ride in an electric cart to the base of the complex. It’s hot so take the golf cart.

The structures of the complex are built on seven terraces. The cart takes you past the barays – big water reservoirs.

You then proceed along a processional walkway with markers on each side. There are two palaces one on each side which date back to the 11^th century.

There are many stairs! Eventually you reach the top where the main sanctuary is found. To the right you can find boulders carved to resemble a crocodile and an elephant and part of a staircase with snakes on either side. There are some small caves and a natural spring. A sping went through the sanctuary and was a source of holy water.