We spent about a week in Hanoi. It’s busy, noisy, hectic and vibrant. Definitely worth a visit.
We flew from Bangkok to Hanoi on a local Asian carrier. We had e-visas and had no issues at customs, just a very long line. We paid for an airport pick-up 300,000 VND, it was worth it. Other people paid 500,000 for cabs.
We stayed in the Old Quarter right in the middle of a street of restaurants, bars and shops. If you are coming here and you want to experience the buzz this is the place to stay. We stayed at CharmCharm House which is right off the main street but far enough away so the noise was not an issue. Our host Mike was very helpful. If you are happy with basic homestay accommodations we highly recommend it.
The streets in the old quarter are full of on street and off street bars and restaurants. As the evening goes on the on street restaurants move further and further out onto the street. In theory it’s a car free zone ,but taxis and motorcycles still drive through the crowds. The streets are also full of wandering vendors selling everything from protective covers for iPhones to fried doughnuts to hair accessories. We ate on the street most nights. Beer was around 20,000 VND
The night life we saw in Hanoi was tamer than what you see in Bangkok, but there may be more we did not see.
Some streets have sidewalks but they tend to have motorcycles or cars parked across them so you often have to walk on the street. Crossing the street is an adventure. There are crosswalks but they are just paint on the road. There are lights where most cars stop but most motorcycles do not. You can cross the road anywhere you just have to wait for a bit of a break and start walking. The traffic will go around you. Look both ways at all times because sometimes there are cars or motorcycles going the wrong way.
We did most of our exploring on foot. We did take the local bus a couple of times. Google maps provided us with accurate routes and we paid 10,000 VND a ride. The buses were modern, air conditioned and almost empty.
Many tourist attractions close for lunch. All tourist attractions are full of local tourists dressed in traditional costumes taking selfies or having professional photos taken. The costumes are rented so you can do it too! I don’t think we saw any westerners dressing up. It does make for some great pictures.
When we were there the air quality was bad. We did not see a blue sky until we left the city and I believe the haze over Hanoi was smog.
The old quarter in Hanoi is full of shops selling outdoor gear, Gortex and down jackets and lots of backpacks and bags. Its all “name brand” North Face, Partagonia, Arcteryx and others. Most of it is fake but the quality is not bad. We bought “Gortex Jackets” for less than $20.00 they are obviously not Gortex but they appear to be waterproof and they are quite well made. I plan to test my jacket in teh shower when I get home. There are some more expensive items $50-100 that look like they could be factory rejects. Either way if you need gear for your trip you can buy it here.
Running routes
Ho Hoan Kiem is a lake in the old quarter. It’s about a one mile loop around the lake and it’s popular with local runners. You have to dodge a few people but it’s pretty runnable. There is a larger lake Ho Tay which we were told you can do a 15k loop around but we did not try it.
Things to do and places to go.
Ho Hoam Kiem – Hoam Kiem Lake
This lake in the old quarter is a hub of activity. In the mornings it’s full of groups of ladies doing dancersize group fitness and there are people walking around the lake all day. There are also benches and vendors selling fruit and snacks. The lake is particularly pretty after dark when all the features are lit up. There are also free pubic bathrooms and one free water refill station.
Den Ngoc Son -temple
This temple is on an island in Ho Hoam Kiem. Entrance is 50,000 VND. Its a nice temple which features two large mummified turtles. The turtles are part of a legend about a friendly turtle bringing the warriors a sword to battle some invaders.
The National Water Puppet Theater
Found on the road beside Ho Hoam Kiem. They have multiple performances a day. The puppets perform in a large pool and the music is played on ancient instruments. Tickets were 100,000 to 200,000 VND. We enjoyed it even if we did not understand the language. You can get an audio guide but you don’t need it.
Note Coffee
This coffee shop is just off the road around Ho Hoam Kiem. When you buy a drink you get sticky notes which you write messages on and leave anywhere you like in the restaurant.
St Joseph Cathedral
Also just off Ho Hoam Kiem. A nice cathedral. Check out the murals behind it and the lights at night.
The Hanoi Opera House
Looks fancy from the outside. The only way to get in was a guided tour
Ceramic Mosaic Mural Road
This series of ceramic mosaics must be over 1 km long. Very cool. The location is a little odd as it’s along a major road packed with traffic.
Hoa Lo Prison AKA The Hanoi Hilton
The infamous prison where American pilots were held during the Vietnam/ American war. It was actually built by the French in 1896 to hold Vietnamese political prisoners. Only the guard house is left. It’s now a museum which reflects on Vietnam’s struggles for independence, the harsh treatment of the Vietnamese political prisoners and how well the American pilots were treated. The American version about the treatment of the prisoners is not quite the same. There are lots of signs in English and you can get an audio guide. We did not. 50,000 VND and definitely worth a visit. There is a memorial garden where ceremonies are held. We saw groups of veterans and young military cadet groups when we were touring around.
The Vietnamese Women’s Museum
Walking distance from Hoa Lo Prison. I really enjoyed this museum and I am not really a museum person. Lots of exhibits about the daily lives and cultures of the many tribes still living in the villages of Vietnam and the roles women have played in the history of Vietnam. There was also an exhibit explaining Mother Goddess worship which was interesting. In the past Vietnam was a matriarchal society where men took the names of their wives’ families and moved in with them when they married. We learned later that Vietnam is the only country with female looking Buddha images. This was done to make Buddha more acceptable to the Vietnamese. Well worth the 40,000 VND.
Bao tang Lich su Quoc ga- The History Museum.
A big complex with two buildings one with history and artifacts dating back to prehistoric times and second with more modern history. We only saw the building with the older artifacts. 40,000 VND and closed for lunch from 11:30 am -1:00pm
The Imperial Citadel of Thang Long
This is a big complex with many buildings and exhibits. It dates back to the 11th century before the capital was moved to Hue. It was used and largely rebuilt to suit the needs of the French and then used again by the Vietcong. The exhibits include various items from the military and a bunker. Entry is 70,000 VND.
The Hanoi Flag Tower
We took pictures from the outside but did not find an entrance, only a coffee shop. It sounds like it is closed for renovations.
Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum
Free to get in but they have pretty tight security and a strict dress code. They scan you and your bag. Harold had a zipo lighter he had just purchased and they would not let him bring it in. We hid it in some flowers and it was still there along with several other lighters when he got back. Its a big complex with a museum all about Ho Chi Minh (40,000VND), a pagoda and the Mausoleum which I do think you can not enter. This is a very important site for many Vietnamese. They close for lunch,and the first time we went they were also closed for some kind of official function. The pagoda has a list of Buddhist Karma on the wall. First time we have seen that, but we saw it at other temples later.
The Temple of Literature
Gardens and temples dedicated to Confucian scholars with stone tablets documenting scholars. There are some signs in English and you can also get an audio guide. 70,000 VND entrance fee.
Quan Thanh Temple
A taoist temple from the 1200’s It is of local significance. Entry fee is 10,000 VND. We were not able to get in. It appeared to be closed for renovations.
Tran Quoc Pagoda
A towering pagoda on Ho Tay (Tay Lake) its free but closed for lunch. Nice grounds and worth a visit. We had homemade coconut ice cream bars across the street. Which we highly recommend.
The John McCain Memorial
Located across the road from the Tran Quoc Pagoda (it’s down the street a bit but if you cross the road you will find it). Marks where John McCain was captured when his plane was shot down during the Vietnam War.
The B52 Victory Museum
It’s basically a collection of relics from the Vietnam/American War. There are large pieces of B52’s and other military hardware in the grounds and more exhibits inside. Entry is free and they are closed for lunch
B52 Lake- Ho B52
It’s a short walk through an interesting neighbourhood from the B52 Victory Museum to this small lake with part of a B52 sticking out of it. The plane was shot down on Dec 27th 1972. Make sure you read the plaque on the opposite side of the lake.
Train Street
This “street” is actually a set of train tracks which is still in use. It’s 2 or 3 blocks of restaurants and bars right along the train tracks. You get to them by walking on the tracks and when a train is coming the restaurants all move the tables and chairs back a bit to let the train go by. The restaurant owners are very careful to make sure no dumb drunk tourists are in the way. There were rumors that the government was going to shut it down over safety concerns but as of now it’s definitely open. The trains come 5 or 6 times a day and the restaurant owners can tell you when to expect them.
Other things you should try. Go to a local restaurant in the business district for lunch. We did this a couple of times. We had to point at the menu and get help from fellow guests but the food was good and we tried new things. Snail soup is good but the snails are a bit chewy.
We enjoyed Hanoi. I would never want to drive there. Even being in a Grab was alarming. We were told that the cars and motorcycles are actually very careful not to hit each other because very few of them have insurance. I am not sure that is reassuring!
Racing and Traveling over 50. 